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There is just no comparison between this type of saw and the cheapo hacksaws. I have one for each blade so I don't have to change out but just grab the one I need. No for a change I won't be the contrary and say put the blade in backwards so it cuts on the pull stroke. Plus the main bar of the frame was a round, probably mild steel tube and didn't hold much tension.

I highly recommend this show to anyone that likes cars at all.The one I have is tensioned with a wing-nut and it bottoms out before there is enough tension. It doesn't have to be exotic just looking for ideas for a simple tool that works. There is just no comparison between this type of saw and the cheapo hacksaws. What ever you get, make sure it's a real high-tension saw. I like the thing about having four saws with different tpi's; that's pretty extreme, but cool. I still remember the first time, when I was working in the machine shop, I saw a dude grab a piece of stock that was too awkwardly shaped to cut on the cold saw, and blast through it in about 30 seconds with the Lenox. One of the things he taught me was to take good strokes, meaning about 11 7/8" out of a 12" blade, not too fast so you don't work harden the material, and a LOT of down pressure. PS: My first "high tension" hack saw that I bought as a kid I had to keep replacing the tension bolt with all thread and a nut or some such, I don't remember now, but I would wear out the threads changing blades all the time. What ever you get, make sure it's a real high-tension saw. Younger electricians/welders/etc don't know what to do with a saw that doesn't have a battery. Stainless screws like the 24t and I probably use the 18 the most so there you are.It seems like we have members who QT for anywhere from 1 month to 1 year.I was wondering if there is a sense among members which pathogens have short incubation cycles and which have longer cycles.